Serra Boca1
My parents christened me Ronald Georges Keller, Ronald for Ronald Reagan and Georges
after Uncle George, adding an s in remembrance of some French ancestors. As soon as I
was old enough to understand, I objected that they hadn’t asked me whether I wanted to
be Ronald or George with or without an s. A few years later, I told them I was going to
be R. G. from then on, a decision that met with their resistance, but I showed them just
how stubborn I could be. Reaching my teens, I discovered that the Ronald they had
named me after didn’t deserve that honor. Testy relations with Uncle George also
revealed, as my parents noticed, a “personality conflict” between us. He was born a
lawyer, which “The Law School” merely confirmed. The injustice of “the law”, the “awe”
of which he prolonged, revolted me. As for the s, I relegated it to the attic of oblivion. As
you have probably guessed by now, I wasn’t making friends with my contemporaries or
good impressions on my teachers, much to my parents’ chagrin. My contempt for sports
and stars started many a fight and, though usually outnumbered, I gave as much as I
got. I infuriated my teachers by questioning the questions they asked us. Yet there was
an exception. Isn’t there always? Mr. Glick, a little man with a vaulted back and a
wheezy voice who taught us General Science. He watched us with gleaming eyes as he
revealed the wonders of this subject. Nothing troubled him, nothing could, not even the
worst sarcasm of rebellious youth. He listened carefully and replied calmly, exploiting an
opportunity to teach us something, something always interesting.
About butterflies, for instance. He was using them as an example to show how greatly
reproduction cycles and processes vary among living things. Suzy Shackelheimer, who
sat in back near the door, interrupted him as rudely as usual. Her mascara targeted her
eyes, her lipstick blackened her lips and her polish made black daggers of her finger and
toe nails. She wore a leopard-skin mini-skirt over a black leotard clinging to her so low
on her hips that the top of the cleft between her buttocks appeared. Guess what she had
2
for a hairdo! Despite her determination to uglify herself, she was a pretty girl, the
prettiest in that class and maybe even in that junior high school.
“Hunh?” warned of immanent attack. “Butterflies?” That chink in her upper front
tooth!
“Yes!” replied Mr. Glick enthusiastically. Seasonal adjustment in the reproductive cycle
assures the continuity of the genus.”
“We don’t need any seasonal adjustments!”
“No, but our ability to control our reproduction exposes us to abuses that jeopardize our
survival as a species. Perhaps butterflies risk extinction less than we do.”
“These flimsy little things that flutter around when it gets warm?” She was fluttering
around with her fingers: unforgettable! “They don’t even know what they are doing!”
Mr. Glick smiled. “No, they probably don’t. Instinct determines it. They don’t have the
option of ignoring it as we do.”
“Are you telling me I should have babies instead of fun?”
Mr. Glick laughed even before we did. Sincerely! “No, but, if I were teaching you sex
education, I would urge you to have both.”
Suzy fascinated me with that fluttering that she so prettily imitated. From time to time, I
asked her to repeat this ballet, which provoked raucous laughter by her aspirants,
incapable of understanding my admiration. Instead of “R. G.”, they were calling me
“Butter Flutter.” I was calling them “stooltoads”, hence many a shoving fight and even a
few fistfights with kicks by my more primitive adversaries. Dad complained that I was
chasing butterflies instead of playing ball with the other kids. The baseball glove he gave
me for Christmas instead of the net I had asked for only reinforced my determination. I
“lent” the glove to a schoolmate more friendly than the others and mowed a neighbor’s
lawn so I could buy a net. The books about butterflies I was borrowing from the library
troubled Mom, so she gave me a Harry Potter for Christmas. The few pages I read and
the others I skimmed struck me as “unscientific”, a concept I had learned from Mr. Glick.
I “lent” it to a “nice girl” across the street. Yet the books on butterflies I was borrowing
from the library no longer seemed scientific enough, so I resorted to interlibrary loans,
3
which raised the librarians’ eyebrows. I was an egghead to adults and an oddball to
contemporaries, except Suzy.
Invited to participate in a competition, our junior high band traveled to Mammoth in
three school buses. I wangled an unoccupied seat in the rear of the third one. While the
band strutted, boomed and honked around the field of Mega Stadium, I was
concentrating on the butterfly collection in the Museum of Natural Science. The forms and
colors of the specimens fascinated me, but the cruelty of pinning such lively and beautiful
creatures to a board for exhibition horrified me. Losing track of time, I suddenly realized
that I no longer had enough to reach the stadium by a city bus in time for the departure.
I spent nearly all the money I had left on a taxi. My school bus was pulling away from the
curb when I ran up waving my arms, which exposed me to noisy sarcasm as I came
down the aisle. Rather than the waste of money, my oblivious fascination with natural
frivolity shook my parents’ heads.
They continued to shake as I chased butterflies with my net. Since our yard didn’t attract
very many, I was taking buses to the end of the line, so I could hunt them in the country.
My horror of sacrificing them diminished as my ability to kill, preserve and display them
increased. Soon I had a collection more impressive by quality of presentation than rarity
of species. I was also learning to photograph and draw them, skills that complemented
each other. Yet even a rapid sequence of still photos didn’t yield enough data to allow
analysis of butterfly flight. I began to mow three lawns so I could earn enough money to
buy a video camera. I needed one with a shutter speed fast enough to shoot clips for
slow-motion projection. Once I had bought one, I shot fluttering butterflies and analyzed
the results on my computer. I studied flight patterns, speed and speed variations, wing
flapping and flexibility. I admired the butterfly’s ability to derive thrust from the up-and-
down beating of the wings by flexing them to manipulate the air. Likewise the strength
and lightness of their wings, which I examined under a microscope, and the tiny muscles
4
that powered them, which I measured with a micro-voltmeter. Comparing my data with
that of reputable lepidopterists, I sent them e-mail admiring their work, asking questions
and even wondering why, in some cases, my data differed from theirs. I was making a
name for myself either as an adolescent meddler or a future candidate for recruitment as
a student. When the cold season drove butterflies out of sight, I propped my net up in the
corner of my room and concentrated on the four stages of butterfly development: eggs,
caterpillars, chrysalises and butterflies.
Maybe they didn’t know what they were doing, but they sure did it better than we could.
I explained that to Suzy at a party and she listened with genuine interest. Although our
conversation was boring her current boyfriend, she let him stew. I told her she was my
favorite butterfly, which got the laugh I expected, much to the boyfriend’s irritation. He
was just another flower. Suzy and I have always been best friends even though we never
had any fun together. I had my fun with Lori Spivak, a fellow entomology student at
Zenia University. She discovered me in an introductory course for entomology majors.
When I asked the professor if a millimeter tear in wing scales would heal, I could feel her
eyes focusing on me. She began to sit beside me, not only in class, but also in the
laboratory, the library, the cafeteria and everywhere else. Though less attractive than
Suzy, she had a pleasant face, an attractive body, a cordial voice and a friendly
disposition. An intelligent, dedicated and conscientious student, she neither envied others
who got higher grades nor despised those who got lower ones. Since no girl had ever
taken an interest in me, hers surprised me, but I welcomed it. Eager to learn my opinion
on every topic raised by our studies, she listened so carefully that I expressed it at
length. Saying it facilitated writing it when I needed to express it in a paper or on an
exam. My appreciation of her companionship encouraged her to accompany me
everywhere we both had to go. We were crossing the campus one day when she took my
hand, squeezed and held it. Though surprised, I enjoyed her soft, warm grasp without
feeling more than friendly affection for her. Soon she was approaching me whenever the
5
circumstances encouraged her, such as when I opened a door for her or we found
ourselves alone in a stairwell. My arm reached around her as if it had a will of its own
and, the first thing I knew, we were arm in arm. A few days later, we began to kiss and
hug without any conscious decision by me. Although she was engineering our intimacy, I
was yielding to a temptation for which I could hardly blame her. Goodnight in the hall
outside her room lasted longer and longer, until a weekend when her roommate was
absent. Someone started down the hall, so, without a whisper or even a tug, we entered,
closed the door and continued inside. Before long, we undressed each other, got in bed
and had fun as if we had been doing it all along. Her passion startled me. So fervently did
she sigh in my ear, so vigorously did she massage me that excitement drove me to an
orgasm that made me shout and left me panting. That night awakened in us a craving for
more. As soon as we could find a suitable apartment, we moved into it. How many nights
did it take me to realize that I had made a permanent commitment?
Despite my objections, Lori insisted on doing everything that would interrupt my studies:
shopping, cooking, serving and cleaning up; dusting, running the vacuum and doing the
laundry; defragging my hard disk, buying a cartridge for my printer and checking books
out of the library; etc. When I caught a cold, she nursed me, informed my professors and
kept me in bed until I stopped coughing. She briefed me on the classes I had missed,
even in the two courses she wasn’t taking herself. How did she manage to keep up with
her studies and average B+? It would have been A- without me. Reminded of women’s
liberation, she laughed me to scorn. After five years together, she finished a masters and
I began a PhD with the intention of doing a dissertation on rare butterfly species in
Amazonia. I was worried about our future together. Because of her self-sacrifice, we had
never had a serious quarrel, a disadvantage perhaps, but we did like each other. We had
never mentioned “love”, I definitely wasn’t in love and I doubt that she was either. Yet
our fellow graduate students were calling us “Dr. Holmes and Mrs. Watson.”
6
One evening, Lori supposed that my PhD would enable me to get a job as a professor of
entomology. With her MA, she could probably get one too, either as an assistant in the
same university or as a teacher in a nearby college or high school. She could do a PhD
later on, but wouldn’t it be nice to have a few kids first? What could I say?
“Maybe...”
“Maybe?”
“Maybe... get married.”
“How about kids?”
“... The trouble with kids is that you have to bring them up. How am I going to help you
if I’m in Amazonia chasing butterflies?”
“You won’t live in Amazonia. You will go down there and chase butterflies for a while
and then you will come home to review your data and write it up. A professorship
will enable you to get support for your travel and expenses.”
“And our kids?”
“I will take care of them while you are away.”
“... Well, we can always try it and see.”
“Try it and see!”
“I didn’t mean the kids. Look: I’m not sure I want to embark on a university career. All
I’m sure of is that I want to keep on studying butterflies.” What I really wasn’t sure of
was whether I wanted to spend the rest of my life with Lori.
“An assistant professorship will allow you six years to make up your mind. If you
decide to do something else, I will get a job and support you so you can get started.”
“... Lori?”
“Hunh?”
“You have always treated me generously and I have always felt indebted to you. But I
wonder if generosity and gratitude are the right emotions to found a marriage on.”
“... Well, stop feeling indebted to me! I haven’t been treating you generously, I have
been treating you selfishly. It’s a privilege to help a gifted scientist. I’m lucky to
have that privilege. As for marriage, should it be founded on any emotion? Certainly
not infatuation, the usual excuse. Why not found it on the ability to live together?
Haven’t we proved that?”
7
Once I had overcome my surprise, I nodded.
She was even more generous than I had assumed.
We got married and, having completed my coursework, I passed my PhD examination.
Once my dissertation committee had approved my project, I got a grant to fund an
expedition to Amazonia, where Lori accompanied me. We hiked, camped and chased
butterflies for a month despite the heat, the rain, the mosquitoes, the snakes, everything
disagreeable and dangerous in a rain forest. The sex we had on the ground was just as
lusty as on our bed in Concordia. We were happy together, I was happy discovering new
species and she shared that happiness more than vicariously. I began to wonder what I
have been wondering ever since: how could Holmes solve mysteries without Watson?
Back in Concordia, we reviewed the data we had compiled, examined the video and the
photos we had taken, the drawings I had made. Then I began to write my dissertation,
assigning the minor problems to Lori and tackling the major ones myself. Since she had
resumed her household chores, I wondered and still wonder how she could find the time.
Her support enabled me to complete my dissertation in six months. It challenged my
director and the other members of my committee to make the customary objections at
my defense. I refuted them by referring to the massive data in my annex. Rather than
the intended examination, the exercise resembled a paper presented to fellow
entomologists. The chairlady of the department took their advice to hire me before
Stanford or Harvard made me an offer ZU couldn’t afford. To sweeten the deal, she
offered Lori a position as my research assistant. My former professors and new
colleagues began to call us Holmes and Watson too.
Lori helped me revise and publish my dissertation, the first of many lepidopterological
studies, articles and books that founded and expanded my reputation. More invitations
than I could accept competed for papers and lectures in meetings at Stanford, Harvard
and other prestigious venues. Yet Holmes could never have accomplished half of what he
achieved without Watson. We also collaborated on books and films about butterflies for
8
the general public, including several for children, fascinated as they were by the colors,
forms and flutterings. The earnings from this activity necessitated the services of a tax
accountant and a financial advisor to manage our earnings and investments. Lori
assumed the responsibility for our finances so I could concentrate on teaching and
research. Our most spectacular achievement was the Butterfly Vivarium, a greenhouse
containing a tropical garden where butterflies were fluttering around. A glass-enclosed
passageway through the middle allowed visitors to observe them and the vegetation on
which they fed. An adjoining structure housed the equipment, powered by solar collectors
on the roof, that regulated the atmosphere and the lighting. It also contained a
laboratory for breeding and research. Popular success and scientific prestige attracted
many visitors, who paid a nominal entrance fee. When we needed additional funding, the
university and enthusiastic alumni provided it.
Lori and I also had our kids, two boys whom she took care of during my summer
expeditions to Amazonia. I stayed in touch by satellite radio and Rob, the younger one,
wanted to accompany me.
“As soon as you and Max are old enough, I will take the whole family. You don’t want me
to leave him and Mom behind, do you?”
“Aw... !”
Mom and I laughed. Two years at least. I have been neglecting the stumbles and falls of
our predominantly happy life in anticipation of the adventure that isolated me from them.
Concentrating on the most remote region of the Amazon, I continued to discover species
unknown to my fellow lepidopterists. Although I had learned some Brazilian Portuguese
to communicate with my guide and porters, they spoke a native dialect of this language.
I assimilated it by conversation with a guide named Peppi Chikkikoppa, who shared my
enthusiasm for butterflies. His voice, which echoes in my mind, sounded like a cat’s
meow. Short, bow-legged and muscled like a wrestler, he walked and ran with a jerky
gait. His broad face assumed every expression from a gap-toothed grin to a squinting
scowl.
9
What impressed me most, however, was his rapid and penetrating intelligence. As I
acknowledge in everything I said and wrote, I owe him a wealth of ideas that never
would have occurred to me without him. The best and the worst I learned from him was
a tradition inherited from one of his ancestors. This man had seen a butterfly the
wingspan of which equaled the breadth of his widespread hands touching at the
thumbtips. Its wings had gleamed a brilliant green splashed with pink at the roots. Also
pink, an eye decoy appeared on each hind wing tail and three eyespots on the outer edge
of each forewing. Despite the beating of its continuously flexible wings, it was struggling
against a powerful wind. It had apparently been blown out of Serra Boca, an unexplored
and forbidding cirque in the Andes. The ancestor had even claimed that this giant had
gazed at him dolefully as if pleading for help. Although Peppi shrugged to excuse me from
the courtesy of taking this claim seriously, I couldn’t entirely dismiss it. How often had I
noticed that a butterfly?s black eye, which is really a cluster of six eyes, seems to
express a sad congeniality with me?
I had already dedicated the current expedition to another research project, so I decided
to postpone the preliminary necessity of studying the geography of Serra Boca to the
coming academic year. Once we had finished that expedition, I engaged Peppi as usual
for the next summer and told him that we would search for Lepidoptera Chikkikoppa. His
namesake inspired a huge smile, which amused me all the way back to Mammoth, three
flights on three airlines. Although Lori met me as usual with the boys at Mammoth
International, my fascination with the giant butterfly dampened my enthusiasm over our
reunion. My lukewarm affection disappointed all three of them, hence a feeling of guilt I
tried to explain away. I could tell that Lori was worried. As soon as she and I were alone,
she told me that every time I returned from Amazonia, she found me more remote.
Every time, I agreed, I needed more time to reaccustom myself to my role as husband
and father.
“Maybe I better come with you next summer. My parents have offered to take care
of the boys.”
10
The danger of depriving our children of their mother as well as their father gave me
pause. I told her about the giant butterfly and the opportunity that justified a dangerous
expedition from which I might not return. “With Peppi taking care of me, though, my
chances of survival must be nine out of ten.”
Lori gave me a knowing look: “More like four out of five.”
“... The summer after next, Lori, I promise. If I neglected an opportunity like this... ”
This time, her look was long, penetrating and sad: “OK, RG. If I lost you... ” She
flicked a tear away. And Lori was no weeper.
It took me two weeks to reintegrate myself in my family, but I became as genuinely
affectionate a husband and father as ever. In fact, the risk I would be running the next
summer reinforced my affection.
Turning to a geographical study of Serra Boca, I encountered an astonishing initial
difficulty. I couldn’t find it on any map, photo or video of the northern Andes. While
examining satellite images one day, however, I discovered a deep cirque surrounded by
spikelike mountains with gaps east and west closed by sharp rock walls. Despite my
relative ignorance of mountain geography, I found this apparently ancient volcanic
formation unique in the Andes. A strong wind blowing through the gaps could have driven
the giant butterfly out of the valley. That close to the Equator, they let the sun shine on
the valley all year long. Green in winter as well as summer, the terrain surrounding the
lake evidenced continuous growth. The consistent warmth of the sun and the relatively
high altitude of the valley floor assured a temperate climate. I could expect to find plant
and animal life entirely different from that of the jungle in the east and the mountains in
the west. I decided that an aerial search for access to the valley and survey of its five
square miles should precede the expedition. After much trouble in raising enough money,
I took advantage of spring vacation to do it. Since the cost of a helicopter exceeded my
budget, I sought a bush pilot with a plane big enough to fly me, Peppi, and a
photographer with his equipment over the site. At first, all I could find refused. As one
11
replied, there had never been a crash in the area because no pilot was foolish enough to
run the risk. Using his fingers to imitate tentacles, he compared Serra Boca to an insect-
eating plant. I objected that the spikes were immobile, to which he replied that the air
currents circulating around them would have the same effect. I asked him if an extra
thousand dollars would encourage him to overcome the difficulty. His face lit up. He said
he would do what he could without wrecking his plane and killing us all, but we wouldn’t
be able to fly as low and slow as I and my friends would probably like. I guessed that he
wanted to demonstrate his skill, charge other customers the price I had offered and
attract more of them by the publicity resulting from our observations.
Although height and flight don’t usually scare me -- waves and deep water do -- it was
the scariest flight I have ever had. The wind varied constantly in direction and force
buffeting the plane, which dropped, yawed or slowed almost to a stall. The pilot, who was
struggling with the controls, had to gun the engine several times. Seated beside him, I
saw sweat beading his brow and anxiety twisting his face. Would his DeHaviland Beaver
withstand the punishment? Suddenly, vomit sprayed the cabin and Peppi
yelled. The turbulence had sickened the photographer. I was afraid the stink would make
me sick too. While Peppi was trying to clean up the mess with a rag and a bottle of
drinking water, the photographer kept taking pictures and video. My glimpses of the
valley revealed a tall, thick forest covering most of the floor and conifers climbing the
lower, milder slopes. None of us were able to sight any animals or evidence of human
beings. Satisfied that we had explored the valley as thoroughly as possible, I asked the
pilot to fly us over the mountains surrounding it. Climbing above the worst of the
turbulence, to our relief, we passed over the spikes on either side and the walls at either
end. None of us could see any feature that suggested access to the valley. Yet I asked
the photographer to shoot the topography thoroughly, not only directly under us but also
on a slant. All of us were exhausted when we finally landed at the airport. I invited the
others for a drink at the outdoor bar, but the photographer politely shook his head. He
12
borrowed cleaning fluid, rags and water to clean up his mess. I paid him a bonus too. I
had to draw these extra funds from our bank account, which worried Lori. She was afraid
I might spend too much another time.
The film and the video revealed much more than we had observed. I discovered vapor
which must have been rising from volcanic springs. Likewise thin strands of smoke
twisted by air currents above the trees. They couldn’t have been coming from lava. The
tall trees resembled redwoods and I found one lying on the ground in a position that
suggested it had been cut down. Some red llamas, which resembled no breed I could
identify, were grazing on the foliage of shorter trees growing in rows. A few yellow
herons were fishing around the lake. Magnification revealed a canoe drawn up on the
shore and, after much scrutiny, some oblong dwellings under the trees covered with
thatch. Here and there were tall, naked humans, whose skin resembled a sun-tanned
white, women near the huts and men elsewhere. Two were sawing the fallen tree into
sections while a third watched. Although we could find no butterflies, big or small, blue
areas indicated a flower that thrived in the valley. A thorough search for ground access
finally revealed an S-shaped passage between the western wall and the nearest spike.
Reaching it from the valley would necessitate a dangerous traverse across the top of the
wall and passing through the mountains on the other side would expose travelers to
extremes of altitude, cold, wind and especially rugged terrain. Water flowing down from
snow and ice melting on the steep upper slopes accumulated in the lake, drained by a
small river that seeped through fissures in the eastern wall. A variety of cascades
splashed down the other side, accumulating in another small river, a source and perhaps
the primary one of the Amazon.
I resisted advice from Lori and the few colleagues I had consulted to take other natives
and scientists with me to ensure greater safety and success. The surest way to spoil a
pristine remnant of our contaminated planet, I told them, was to expose it to other
13
people. Not only would they degrade the site and the artifacts, but also advertise their
existence. Explorers and adventurers would soon flock to Serra Boca seeking fame and
riches. How long would it take them to plunder the botanical, ichthyological,
ornithological, zoological, anthropological and entomological treasures of Serra Boca?
Every butterfly nut would crave a Lepidoptera Chikkikoppa for his collection, every flower
nut, the blue flower for his garden. Every zoo would covet a red llama; every aviary, a
yellow heron; every aquarium... Lord knows what kind of fish the herons were plucking
out of the lake! What if they were good to eat? The herons’ yellow feathers might
introduce another era of ladies’ hats and the llamas’ red fur, one of fur coats. Timber
pirates would raze the trees and sell the lumber to furniture manufacturers who would
furnish dining rooms all over the world with tables and chairs made of exotic wood. Think
what would happen to a community spared the devastation suffered by the rest of their
fellow humans! Christian and Muslim missionaries would compete to convert them;
interlopers and colonists, to enslave them; agricultural and industrial agents, to exploit
them. No!
But how were Peppi and I going to enter the Boca? And without publicizing our intentions
and destination? It was impossible for any kind of airplane to land and take off.
Expensive and dangerous for a helicopter. We could parachute into the valley and
parachute our equipment from a small cargo plane flying just above stalling speed when
the wind was down. But I foresaw two problems with this approach. In the first place, we
might have to wait a long time for favorable wind conditions and, the longer we had to
keep the airplane ready, the more it would cost. In the second, we would have to leave
the valley on foot by the hazardous western exit. Once we had reached the other side,
we would have to radio for a helicopter to come and get us on a nearby mountain slope.
Provided we still had a radio and power to operate it, otherwise the trek over the
mountains would be dangerous and exhausting. Thus the only option within my reach
was fraught with difficulty and danger. Yet discovery of the giant butterfly and,
incidentally, a rare if not unique phenomenon in our day: an unknown and unspoiled land
14
and people. I naturally decided to try. Would I ever forgive myself for avoiding the
challenge? I couldn’t take a chance on the regrets that would burden the rest of my
career and no doubt my life as well. Furthermore, the temptation to try what I hadn’t
would tempt the experts in whom I had confided to plan my expedition. As long as I
controlled access to Boca, I could forestall the inevitable aggression of civilization.
The highest hurdle I had to clear was persuading Lori. Had I ever seen her cry? I was
trying to explain the necessity of meeting the challenge I faced when, suddenly, tears
came pouring down her cheeks and she ran to the nearest bathroom, slamming the door
behind her. I felt a void swelling in my body. The threat to our life and family hammered
my determination and yet without smashing it. When Lori reemerged, she had washed
her tears away, but her countenance suggested that she had already lost me.
Disconcerted, the boys turned to me for an explanation, which I found almost impossible
to articulate. After a few tense days, however, we found the hardback of Robinson
Crusoe I had given Max for Christmas on the dining room table when Lori called us for
supper. Despite Max’s polite thanks, he hadn’t found the courage to read more than a
few pages of so thick a volume.
“From now on,” Lori explained, “we are all going to sit down together after supper
and read a chapter of that book. And everybody is going to take a turn reading.”
All her men had big eyes but none of us dared to object, not even Rob, the younger, who
was addicted to the few DVDs “for kids” that Lori and I allowed him. Our readings of
Robinson Crusoe and the discussions they inspired cured him of this addiction and his
reading skill made an impression at his kindergarten. As soon as we cut the lights out
that first night, I expressed my gratitude, admiration and humility to Lori. She hugged
me and, for once, sex came in second. Maybe we had finally fallen in love.
The second hurdle I had to clear was funding. Persuading donors to contribute
necessitated revelations that tended to compromise the secrecy protecting Boca from
predators. I had no choice. All I could do was plead with them to keep the information
15
secret. A painting of Lepidoptera Chikkikoppa as I imagined it from Peppi’s inherited
description helped to convince them. Lori photographed it, drew up an attractive
brochure and negotiated with the ZU Press to publish it. Brisk sales earned additional
funds to support my expedition. I had already begun to purchase equipment and learn to
parachute from an instructor who flew out of Concordia Airport. Unfortunately, an
awkward landing gave me an ankle sprain, so I had to ice the swelling and hobble around
on crutches for a few weeks. Friends and colleagues were calling me St. Ex the Second. I
had also arranged for Peppi to take parachute lessons and he learned more quickly than I
did. His instructor added a P.S. praising him in a letter Peppi wrote me in his handwriting
and language, which fascinated the sole professor of Brazilian Portuguese at ZU. Further
proof of Peppi’s athletic ability which, fortunately, hadn’t attracted the greed of the
soccer mafia.
My bush pilot helped me find and negotiate with an airline which flew two small Antonovs
to strips in the Amazon to supply the predators who were plundering the rain forest.
Another chink in my armor! The airline charged me for a few practice runs over Serra
Boca before agreeing to fly us and our equipment for a drop. I also paid the bush pilot to
sit in the cockpit and advise the pilot and copilot. A few weeks after commencement at
ZU, Peppi and I had our equipment and supplies packed and ready in a hangar. Lori had
insisted on coming with me and bringing the boys along for the flight and the drop. The
wind calmed sooner than we had expected. Five minutes before we jumped, I hugged my
wife and sons. To everybody’s surprise and delight, Peppi did likewise.
“Like a nice gorilla!” exclaimed Rob enthusiastically.
Out the door I went, felt the slap of the slipstream, the upward heave of my insides and
the downward jerk of my opening chute. I saw the valley rising towards me and the
peaks around me spiking the sky above me. The other three parachutes were following
me in an upward line. Peppi and I waved to each other and I could see his great grin. The
Antonov circled back over us and I saw Lori at the exit door waving, so I waved to her
16
too. As the distance between us increased, I suddenly felt more lonely than ever before.
The ground was approaching, so I concentrated on landing safely. Another sprain would
be fatal. We and the cargo packs all came down within a fifty yard radius on the grass
beside the lake. What a successful drop! It seemed to augur well for our expedition.
Peppi and I climbed out of our harnesses, folded the chutes and shouldered our
backpacks so we could move our equipment and supplies to a campsite we had chosen.
As we headed for it, we saw yellow herons along the edges of the lake and red llamas
grazing on tree foliage in the distance, but no fellow humans. Then we saw giant emerald
butterflies some fifty yards away and soon one was hovering over us curiously. The
green flushed with pink was even more exquisite than I had imagined. The flexible
forewings caressed the air so that it could hover or move in any direction. It waved its
long, graceful antennae over us. Otherwise except for minor details, my guesswork
proved accurate. The eyes that focused on us mirrored our fascination.
Running feet approached and we saw a dozen naked, tall, slender, muscular men coming
with wooden clubs. Surrounding us, they faced us with their feet spread and their clubs at
their sides. They had tan skin, a mop of brown hair, hazel eyes, no facial hair and not
one stitch of clothing. Peppi and I guessed that they were guarding us until their chief
arrived to examine us and decide how they should treat us. As we spoke to each other,
they listened curiously, for we seemed as strange to them as they did to us. Now many
giant butterflies were hovering overhead, apparently attracted by the assembly. Our
interest in them pleased the guards, who smiled and spoke to each other in a chanting
language. Curious men, women and children, all of them completely naked too, began to
approach from both sides of the lake. The men resembled the guards except for the
variety of age. The women had the same skin, hair, eyes and the feminine equivalent of
their bodies. In neither sex did we see any of the usual deformity of self-indulgence or
17
aging. No obesity, for instance, not even any evidence of infirmity or disability. I began
to worry.
I noticed that several adolescent girls were staring at me and giggling to each other. I
wondered why since, except for Lori, women had never paid me much attention. One of
the girls pushed her way through between two guards and approached inspecting me
from head to foot. Soon two more followed her. The guards and the crowd were smiling
their approval of this curiosity. Then the first girl touched my fly as if to confirm what was
behind it, but I slapped her hand away. She made a little scream and pouted at me,
while the other girls, the guards and the crowd grumbled their disapproval. The guards
told the girls to leave the circle and they did so.
Peppi explained their behavior: “They are wondering what we are hiding under our
clothes.”
Why hadn’t I thought of that? “Then we better show them.”
We unzipped our coveralls to show them our chests and our all-too-hairy legs, which
disgusted them. Yet our partial strip reassured them. We guessed that, if they didn’t kill
us, they would make us strip.
The crowd separated and an elderly couple came through the gap holding hands and
inspecting us. Though gray-haired and wrinkled, they had aged handsomely. They were
wearing skullcaps with imitation giant-butterfly wings slanting upwards at forty-five
degrees and flapping as they walked. These headdresses would have made Peppi and me
laugh if our safety didn’t depend on respect for the chief couple. As they entered the
circle, the chief lady gave me a friendly look and the chief gentleman, a suspicious one.
They ignored Peppi. I waved at the butterflies overhead; pointed at Peppi, myself, our
baggage and our parachutes; tried to indicate our intentions. The lady laughed and the
gentleman grumbled, while some of the others imitated her and others, him. The chief
couple spoke to each other, then each spoke to the others who had imitated him. Further
inspection of us, suggested approval of me and disapproval of Peppi.
18
Pointing at Peppi, I protested in English:
“What’s wrong with him?”
Looking at him, they all burst out laughing, contemptuously. They were behaving as if I
had tried a ridiculous diversion. The uniformity of their physique and the absence of
invalids suggested eugenics. There were a few hundred of them, a number that the
resources of Serra Boca could support.
The chief woman pointed at our baggage and chanted an apparent request to see what
was in them. Spreading our tent on the ground, we arranged our equipment and supplies
on it. Curious, the crowd peered and murmured, while those in back stood on tiptoes.
The camera and the video recorder caught their immediate attention, so I took the
recorder, shot a clip sweeping around the circle and showed it to them. Surprise and
delight! Approaching, the chief woman discovered a drawing of the giant butterfly that I
had made according to Peppi’s testimony. Enthusiastic, she showed it to the chief man
and then to the crowd while moving around the circle. More surprise and delight!
Encouraged, I put my arm around Peppi and gestured to the crowd to show that he
shared my interest in the giant butterfly. Though diverse, the reaction was not
encouraging.
The chief man pointed inquisitively at the radio and the crank-operated generator to power it.
“Let’s demonstrate it,” I told Peppi. “Maybe we could talk to our familes.”
I cranked while he told his wife that we had landed safely and he cranked while I did
likewise. Both wives sounded relieved. The voices coming from the loudspeaker
astonished our listeners, who approached and examined it to see if someone were hiding
in it. We kept our communications brief to avoid trying our captors’ patience. Once we
had stopped cranking and turned the radio off, I did a pantomime to show that the
women who had spoken were a long way away. The first to understand, a middle-aged
woman named Noo explained that no tiny women were hiding in the loudspeaker. The
outsiders had found a way to transmit these voices
19
from afar. The amazement caused by this revelation inspired a debate between those
who, as we guessed, envied our advantage and those who feared it. Wouldn’t such
communication with the outside breach the isolation that preserved Boca from
contamination and degradation? Although Noo approved of our radio, a man named Zoft
disapproved. If the disapprovers had their way, we feared, they would destroy our radio.
A gaunt old man with a mop of silvery hair; fierce eyes; thin, straight lips and a kettle-
drum voice, Zoft preached against this evil. Yet Noo answered all of his objections so
that a stalemate resulted. Then she proposed a temporary compromise: lock our radio,
generator and other equipment up until I had demonstrated that I could be trusted. The
chief couple approved.
They indicated that they wanted us to repack our equipment. Once we had done so, two
guards carried it in our backpacks to a village on the north side of the lake, followed by
two more with our parachutes, while the others escorted us to another on the south side.
Both villages consisted mostly of oblong dwellings with walls of woven plant-fiber and
thatched roofs, but our guards took us to a smaller, round one. Inside, we discovered a
floor of ceramic tiles and walls of woven plant fiber. Our guards indicated that they
wanted us to undress and saw that we did so completely. Imagine how we felt when they
took us to an outdoor fireplace where women were preparing a meal! As naked as we
were, however, they paid us no attention. The aroma of the cooking seemed as strange
to us as the taste of the food, which one of them served on a large ceramic platter. She
put it in the middle of a woven mat, invited us to sit down on either side and gave each
of us a ceramic spoon. I was impressed by the exotic colors, the unusual design and
flawless finish of these ceramics as well as the decorations depicting flora, fauna and
naked Bocans. We had to force ourselves to eat at first, but soon our hunger took over
and we began to enjoy the nourishment if not the taste. Only then did the woman bring
us ceramic goblets of milk, which tasted so sour that we nearly vomited. Determined to
make a good impression, however, we drank it down. We guessed, correctly as I later
discovered, that it was llama milk.
20
The guards wanted to take us somewhere else, so we thanked the women, who
interpreted our English and Brazilian by our smiles. Although we were nodding, they were
raising their chins, so we realized that Bocans indicate agreement that way. Nodding
meant disagreement. The guards escorted us to an oblong dwelling with an entrance in
the middle of the side. As we entered, we saw a yellow heron in ceramic standing on a
small table against the opposite wall. The eyes were so vivid that I would have taken it
for a living heron if I had seen it standing in shallow water. Noo greeted us by smiling and
extending her hands towards us with upright fingers. Peppi guessed that she intended for
us to do the same and touch fingers with her, which he did and I imitated him. Pointing at
herself, she said “Go Noo” and then at the heron: “Go”. She waved her hand to indicate
the dwelling: “Unh Go.” A lesson in Bocan, a language unknown to linguists, had begun.
Noo led us to one end of the hut, where an old man, a little girl and a smaller boy were
waiting. As she introduced them, each smiled, raised his chin and touched hands with us,
which Noo called “kah-tee.” She spread a mat across the tile floor, placed leather
cushions in a circle and invited us to sit down. She would say a word or phrase and the
old man, the little girl or little boy would illustrate them. For instance, the old man smiled
and frowned, the little girl stood up and sat down, the little boy walked and ran around
us. Although Peppi was learning faster than I was, we both learned twenty-five words
and phrases in about an hour. I prompted one of them by imitating the flight of the giant
butterfly with my hand.
“Ji-jaw,” said Noo.
The little boy trotted around us flapping his arms.
Intrigued by the lack of writing, I stopped at the door as we were leaving, stooped,
wrote “Unh Noo” in the sand and said it while looking inquisitively at Noo.
She laughed, nodded, said “bidge!”and rubbed it out with her foot.
She accompanied us under escort by the guards to a dwelling in the north village.
Opposite the entrance, we saw a life-size ceramic statue of ji-jaw. The eyes seemed to
21
focus on us. Once we had admired it, Noo led us to an assembly waiting at the end of the
dwelling: the chief couple and their council, most of whom we had seen that morning.
Zoft was on the chief man’s side and Noo joined the delegates on the chief woman’s
side. The chief woman and those on her side were smiling, while the chief man and those
on his side were frowning. I approached and kah-teed with the chief couple, but, when
Peppi extended his palms, the chief lady merely up-nodded and the chief man down-
nodded. I wondered whether they considered him a subordinate or a degenerate. He
ignored the snub. Our courtesy increased the sympathy of the chief lady and her side,
decreased the antipathy of the chief man and his except for Zoft. This authoritarian
symmetry both intrigued and alarmed me. A subtle shift in the relations between the two
sides might decide our fate. Although our interest in ji-jaw favored us, our intrusion
counted against us, while Peppi’s racial dissimilarity endangered him.
Turning around and separating, the chief couple revealed our folded parachutes on the
floor behind them. Pointing at them, the chief man looked at me inquisitively. Anxious to
demonstrate Peppi’s intelligence and competence, I asked him to explain the purpose of
our expedition. He exploited the opportunity eagerly enough to indicate that he
recognized the danger he faced. I admired his skill with sign language, which far
exceeded mine. Somehow he managed to inform his listeners that his ancestor had
discovered ji-jaw five generations ago. Watching their faces, however, I saw two
reactions, a favorable one by the chief woman and her side, and an unfavorable one by
the chief man and his. Zoft looked downright hostile. On the chief woman’s side, Peppi’s
ancestral association with ji-jaw tended to excuse his racial dissimilarity, but, on the chief
man’s, this inherited fascination threatened to breach the isolation of the Bocan
community.
Once Peppi had finished, I pointed inquisitively at my backpack, which I had noticed next
to one of the parachutes. The chief couple up-nodded, so I took a pad and a crayon out. I
22
sketched the giant butterfly as seen from above, wrote “Ji-Jah” under it and “Lepidoptera
Chikkikoppa” under that. Showing it to the chief couple, I pointed at the first name, read
it and pointed at them. Then I showed them the second one, read it and pointed at Peppi.
Puzzled, the couple hesitated, which prompted his side to insist on “ji-jah” and hers, to
concede “Lepidoptera Chikkikoppa” with an astonishingly correct pronunciation. Once
they had said it, Zoft snarled the same expression.
Pointing at the pad and the crayon, the chief man said “zik?”, a word I had heard several
times and understood to mean “please.” I handed them to him and he up-nodded. The
couple examined my drawing and writing curiously, then she took the crayon, showed it
to me and asked “zik?” I started to down-nod, but, realizing my mistake, up-nodded and,
reassured, she smiled. At least smiles and frowns meant the same for them as for us.
Taking the pad, she flipped to the next page and sketched a horizontal view of a giant
butterfly with its wings raised in flight as seen from a 45° angle. I admired the
foreshortening. The chief man and both sides grinned, up-nodded, cheered “tee!” and
stamped their feet, so we did likewise. Pointing at her drawing, the chief man made an
embracing gesture, then at mine, and repeated it. Pointing at my writing, he scribbled
disdainfully and did a breast stroke as if to push it away. Zoft pointed at his head and his
lips, made the embracing gesture, then scribbled with his hand and jerked his arm up as
if to throw the writing over his shoulder. The others on his side applauded, but the chief
man merely up-nodded, likewise the chief woman and her side. So they agreed on the
rejection of writing, a detour that degraded ideas flowing from thought to speech. They
suspected our importation of indulging the mind and memory.
But would the chief couple deprive us of writing or worse, eliminate us as a threat to the
intelligence of the community? Pointing at Noo, I named her. Pointing at Zoft, who
didn’t like it, I named him. Then pointing at Peppi, I said: “Peppi Chikkikoppa!”
Surprised at first, they asked: “Peppi Chikkikoppa?”
But then Zoft scoffed: “Peppi Lepidoptera!”
And they all laughed.
23
Asking for the pad and the crayon, I drew Peppi’s wife, nine kids and father-in-law with
his cane in front of their house with smoke curling up from the chimney. Since I had
never seen any of them or that, Peppi chuckled. The drawing excited much curiosity,
questioning and puzzled glances at him, which we answered by persistent up-nodding.
Taking the pad and crayon, the chief lady flipped to a new page -- how quickly she had
learned that! -- and, with frequent glances at Peppi, drew a likeness that resembled him
strikingly. It not only showed his bow legs, his bulging muscles and his broad face, but it
also suggested his energy. We all admired the sketch because it resembled Peppi, but
they also laughed because it reproduced a likeness that seemed ridiculous and
contemptible to them. Rather than let me sketch my family as I expected, the chief
couple called the guards in to take us away. Before we left, they kah-teed with me but
not with Peppi. Although I pointed him out to them, they turned away.
“Racist snobs!” I shouted in English. “He’s a fellow human being of yours!”
Shocked, all of them turned and stared. Zoft glared at me. The chief man up-nodded to
the guards, two of whom grabbed my arms and pushed me away, followed by others
with Peppi.
They took us on a tour of Boca, showing us the two villages; the shops, the offices, the
schools and the hospital; the fields, the orchards and the pastures where red llamas
approached so we could stroke them; natural resources such as redwood timber, clay
and iron ore deposits; volcanic fire, geysers and cascades. They paid no attention to the
rocky cliffs at either end of the valley or the slopes on either side where spiked peaks
rose above them. Yet high on the south slope, I saw a herd of wild goats with a white and
brown coat. I pointed them out to a guard, who shrugged as if they didn’t matter.
Instead, he recommended the cloud of ji-jaws that followed us everywhere. After this
tour, the guards took us back to our hut, ready by then for us to sleep in. We found two
wood-frame beds with flexible slats supporting llama-leather mattresses stuffed with
llama wool. Our sleeping bags lay on top of them and our personal effects, such as razors
24
and tooth brushes, were on a table between them. The absence of our pens, paper and
documents didn’t surprise us, but we worried about our radio and generator. I turned to
one of the guards who was apparently waiting for questions or requests. Pretending to
crank the generator, I looked at him questioningly. He nodded, said “bidge” and, to
make sure I understood, he cranked a few turns and did a few breast strokes. We sought
consolation in his failure to throw the generator over his shoulder.
Once he had left, bolting the door from the outside, Peppi and I looked at each other with
the same idea in mind: how could we break out of that jail? Vents at the top of the walls
and under the eaves admitted light, but a wooden lattice isolated them from us.
Fingering the walls, we found that a similar lattice reinforced them from the outside. The
bottoms of the vertical timbers were anchored in a layer of volcanic mortar underlying
the tile flooring. The wood of a horizontal timber snapped Peppi’s razor when he tried
to cut into it. Nor did we find a flint lighter like those we had seen elsewhere, so we
couldn’t burn our way out of the hut. A slab of the same wood, the door swung on three
hinges and two well-spaced bolts slid through rings. All of these iron fixtures were nailed
to the wood on the outside. During our tour, we had seen the head blacksmith forge such
implements over volcanic fire.
Our tour, we agreed, suggested that the chief couple might admit us to the community.
Neither of us mentioned the difference between their treatment of me and him. I was
worried about that and I suspect that he was too. We still wanted to study the giant
butterfly and leave with as much evidence as we could carry, including live specimens.
The two or three months we needed to do that would give us enough time to plan our
escape. Climbing a slope, finding a way to the exit and crossing the mountains would
require clothing and equipment such as that taken from us. Either we had to recuperate it
or replace it somehow and hide it where we could take it when we left. Hardly could we
25
solve those problems without the complete confidence of the community. We guessed
that Zoft would do everything in his power to substantiate his suspicion of us. Our
relations with Noo, on the other hand, and her support during our hearing before the
chief couple persuaded us that we could count on her to defend us.
No sooner had we agreed on all of that than we heard a knock on the door, which one of
the guards unbolted and opened. They escorted us to the same dining area, where the
same woman served us an evening meal. A salad of red cereal, rainbow tomatoes and
little chunks of green cheese came on another ceramic platter with a dressing that had an
odd aroma. Our hunger and thirst overcame our reluctance and especially because,
instead of sour milk, she served us a delicious fruit drink. The more we drank, however,
the more light-headed we felt. When the guards escorted us back to our hut, drowsiness
was dragging our feet. As soon as the door closed behind us, we flopped on our beds and
fell asleep in the dark. In what seemed like a minute later, a pounding headache woke
me up in daylight. Peppi had disappeared along with his bed and his belongings.